I have seen several free and pay patterns for footie socks out there, but frankly, they didn't suit my needs. So, I took the best of each pattern and created my own. This pattern is a toe-up pattern on two circulars, but you could probably do it on dpns if you wanted. The catchy part is the cast on, but it can be done on dpns (or so I am told). This pattern is for a woman's shoe size 7.5-8, but it is easy to adjust to any foot. It does make socks that are about 1 full size large before washing as the Cascade Fixation yarn shrinks with washing. So, please keep that in mind as you make your own socks. Send me a pic of yours or post it on ravelry. I can't wait to hear from you!

Also, this pattern has not been FULLY error checked. You might find something that needs tweaking. Please leave a comment if you find something!

Footie Socks (woman's size 7.5-8 US)

Yarn: Cascade Fixation - I needed just a touch out of a second ball. If you have some scraps left over, you could do a contrasting rib band or toe cap.

Needles: US 1, 2.25 mm

Notions: pigtail stitch marker for marking instep stitches, stitch holder, row counter (optional), tape measure

Gauge: 9 sts/12 rows per inch worked flat in st-st. If you are not using Cascade Fixation, you may want to alter this pattern to account for the lack of shrinkage!

Pattern:

Cast on 20 stitches using the Magic Cast on method from Judy Becker

Knit 1 1/2 rounds (30 sts). At this point, you have completed the sole stitches and are about to knit the instep stitches.

Toe increases:
Round 1: k1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1
Round 2: k

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until you have 64 sts (32 on each needle if you are working on circs). You may wish to place a pigtail marker on the instep stitches so you can more easily keep track of your knitting.

Knit even until toe measures 2 1/2". You may wish to make this toe area shorter or longer. If you do, be sure to take that into account as you knit the sole section.

Sole section:
Row 1: k6, place next 20 sts on holder
Row 2: turn, purl all remaining sts (44 sts).
Row 3: sl 1, knit to end of row, combining all sts on one needle. You will knit the remainder of the sock on one needle.

Slipping the first stitch of each row, work even in st-st until sock measures 7.25". If you wish to make your sock smaller or larger, use this area to do so. Each size smaller or larger is just over 1/4".

Increase for gusset:
Row 1: sl1, k1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1
Row 2: sl 1, purl across

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have added 6 sts on each side, for a total of 56 sts. End with a row 1.

Heel flap:

Row 1: sl 1, p 37

Working on center 20 sts only, complete the flap:

Row 1: sl1, k19
Row 2: sl 1, p29

Work for 12 rows total (6 slipped sts on each side)

Pick up sts of flap:

Row 1: sl 1, k19, pick up and knit 6 sts along flap edge
Row 2: sl 1, p25, pick up and knit 6 sts along flap edge (note: you may wish to use a crochet hook and pick up sts from the right side of the fabric on this side to make the picked up sts lie flatter.) You should now have 32 sts on the needle for the heel flap and 18 sts on each side waiting to be decreased.

Heel back:

Row 1: *sl 1, k1, rep from * across to 1 st before gap. SSK last st of flap together with 1st st of gusset.
Row 2: sl1, purl to last st before gap. P2tog last st of flap together with 1st st of gusset.

Repeat until all sts of gusset have been worked.

Knit across heel sts (if you are changing color to a contrasting color for the rib band, do it before knitting heel sts).

Pick up and knit one st in each of the slipped sts along the side of the sock. Using a second circular, knit across the 20 sts on the holder, then pick up and knit one st in each slipped st along the side.

Work K1, P1 rib for three rounds.

Bind off in pattern (you may wish to use a larger needle for the bind off).

Weave in ends.

Machine wash and dry!